Friday 3 May 2013

Exploring Ecuador (Quito, Mindo and Cotopaxi, Ecuador)

From the Galapagos Islands, I flew up to Quito, the capital of Ecuador, which I used as a base for the next five days to explore some more of Ecuador. First I headed a couple of hours northwest to the town of Mindo, which sits at the heart of the Mindo-Nambillo cloud forest a renowned bird watching site due to being home to around 370 species of birds. I´d originally planned to head east to the Amazonian rainforest, but with both time and money now at a premium, I decided to spend a couple of days exploring the slightly more accessible, but no less interesting, cloud forest.

Mindo-Nambillo cloud forest
On my first afternoon in Mindo I took a walk uphill out of town until I reached La Terabita, a strange aerial tram which after a slightly precarious ride above the treetops brought me to a series of paths connecting a number of waterfalls deep in the forest. After walking between a few of the waterfalls, I took a quick refreshing dip under one of them before walking back up through the forest to catch the last Terabita ride back towards Mindo.

La Terabita

After a quick dip under one of the waterfalls
The next day I wandered out of town again, this time to Mariposas de Mindo, a fantastic butterfly farm that is home to 1200 butterflies from 25 different species. After a brief explanation (in Spanish) of the four stages of a butterfly´s life, I was able to wander around the enclosure the butterflies inhabit. The butterflies were all incredibly colourful and some of them were nearly as big as my hand! A few photos of the best of them are below...








Later that day, I got a slightly more dramatic view of the cloud forest by zip lining over the trees on a series of zip lines extending 3500m over the forest. In all there were 13 lines ranging from 20m to 450m, which gave a great adrenaline rush as well as fantastic views across the cloud forest.

Zip lining over the cloud forest
I then stopped in at Reservas Las Tangaras, a brilliant but well hidden ecological reserve deep in the forest which I´d spotted a sign for on my walk the previous day. The reserve is a 2km walk from the main road down a steep muddy track so is not visited by many tourists, but it was a great find that I enjoyed wandering around for a couple of hours. The reserve employs a couple of volunteers to run it, who monitor the local wildlife and maintain the network of walking trails that run across the site. On arriving at the cabin which is the volunteers home and which also welcomes paying guests, I found a number of hummingbirds whizzing around the two feeders that sit outside. I stood transfixed for several minutes watching the hummingbirds flying to and from the feeders, feeling privileged to see these beautiful birds in the wild.




I then took a walk along a few of the trails, finding my way to a watering hole in the river where I took another quick swim, before walking up to a bird watching shelter from where you can see the brightly coloured Andean Cock of the Rock bird displaying its colours and squawking loudly at a lek (courting ground).

Stopping for a swim at Las Tangaras
Cock of the Rock Lek (picture taken from the Las Tangaras website)
After a final walk through the forest the following morning, it was time to say goodbye to Mindo and head back to Quito, after what had been a really good few days exploring the forest. While not as well known as the Galapagos Islands or the Amazon rainforest, the wildlife on display here was equally impressive and I was really glad to have visited the area.

The next day I again headed out of Quito, this time to the Cotopaxi National Park, home of Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano in the world, and one of the highest mountains in Quito. I´d booked to do a 60km mountain biking tour of the park with the Biking Dutchman, a Dutch guy called Jan who´s been running biking tours in the area for around twenty years. After driving a couple of hours out of Quito, I along with a Colombian couple, Cecil and Valerie, saddled up and set off with Jan for a fantastic ride around the park. At first Cotopaxi was covered in cloud and we thought we might not get a glimpse that day, but a gap in the clouds soon appeared and were able to spot the snowy peak above us.
First view of  Cotopaxi

Ready to set off
It was my first time back on a mountain bike since my nasty crash in Bolivia so I was a little hesitant at first, but before long I was zooming down a steep hill and regaining my confidence. Most of the morning´s riding was up a steady incline so it was quite tough going, but made more than worth it by the stunning surroundings of the national park.

Lunch!


After stopping beside a lake for lunch, the afternoon saw some easier riding as we headed downhill towards the northern gate of the park. Unfortunately the weather began to turn as the afternoon went on and before long we were heading towards a big thunderstorm which was throwing big bolts of forked lightning on to the ground below. We sensibly decided to cut the ride short there as none of us particularly fancied getting hit by lightning for the sake of a few more kilometres bike riding


Cotopaxi
My final couple of days in Ecuador were spent exploring Quito. First I caught a bus to Mitad del Mundo, a huge monument built to commemorate the role that Ecuador played in better understanding the shape and size of the planet following some work carried out here by French astronomers and scientists in the eighteenth century. The monument was built on what was thought to be the Equator, but was later shown by GPS systems to be around 250m south of the equator! Inside the monument was an interesting museum about the different native tribes in Ecuador while the parkland around the monument contained a number of other exhibitions and attractions.

Mitad del Mundo
Following the discovery of the mistaken location of Mitad del Mundo, some enterprising locals have opened another museum on the actual Equator line, which as well as further displays about Ecuador´s history and native people, also offers a number of interesting experiments to demonstrate the differences between the two hemispheres and the effects of being on the Equator. Perhaps inevitably this includes a sink of water so you can watch water going down a plug hole clockwise and anticlockwise either side of the line (and straight down on the Equator itself) as well as a game where you have to balance an egg on a nail (supposedly easier on the Equator) which I failed miserably at!

A quick trip home to the Northern Hemisphere
On my last morning in Ecuador I took a wander around the old town of Quito, which contains a huge number of impressive colonial buildings, as well as some more recent buildings, such as the Basilica Cathedral which for a couple of dollars I was able to climb to the top of and get some great views of the city.

Basilica Cathedral
Quito
Today happened to be 1st May, so from the top of the cathedral I also got some great views of the Labour Day marchers as they came past the cathedral as part of a huge parade of workers through the city. There were lots of police around, helicopters circling overhead and thousands of people out on the streets either participating in the march or watching it go past (Labour Day is a national holiday in Ecuador), and it was interesting to see the various groups come past, including trade unions, the communist party of Ecuador and various other representatives of local and national workers organisations. Thankfully everything seemed to pass off peacefully and the parade didn´t stop me from getting to the airport in time for my flight on to my next and final destination in South America, Rio de Janeiro....

The Communist Party marchers at the May Day parade
Traditional dress and dancing at the May Day parade

Thursday 2 May 2013

Walking with iguanas, snorkelling with sea lions and swimming with sharks (Galapagos Islands, Ecuador)

After arriving in Ecuador, I spent a couple of days chilling out in the city of Guayaquil before heading on to the next stop on my travels - the Galapagos Islands. I'd debated for some time whether or not to visit the islands while I was in Ecuador, as they can be incredibly expensive to visit. Typically, people book an eight day, seven night tour of the islands, which can cost many hundreds of dollars. However, after doing some research I found that there were cheaper alternatives that would still enable me to visit the islands, if slightly less comprehensively than on a package tour. The thought of being confined to a boat with other travellers for eight days wasn't particularly up my street anyway, so this more independent way of doing things was quite appealing.

I therefore decided to book a flight to one of the islands, San Cristobal, where I could base myself for a few days and hopefully pick up some good deals on last minute day trips. This meant arriving on San Cristobal without a hostel booked or any plans for the next few days, but I enjoyed the freedom this gave me and once I'd found somewhere to stay I set about exploring the main town on the island, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. 

sea lions chilling out in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno
First, I took a stroll up to the new Galapagos Interpretation Centre just outside the town which gave a helpful oversight of the islands history, geography and wildlife. What I hadn't perhaps appreciated before I came to the islands was just how many islands there are (there are 18 main islands, as well as over a hundred other rocks and islets), how large some of them are, and how spread out they are. It quickly became apparent that I might only be able to get a taster of the Galapagos Islands from San Cristobal with the time and money I had, but I figured it would be better to see at least some of what the islands had to offer rather than missing them altogether.


That afternoon I took a walk up to Frigatebird Hill, a small hill just outside the town so-called because of the frigatebirds that seem to constantly circle above it. I'd expected the island to be really busy and touristy, and although in places it was, on this walk I had the path more or less to myself, particularly once I walked down the other side of the hill and on to a secluded beach about forty minutes walk away along a rather overgrown path. During the course of my walk I saw lots of frigatebirds, plenty of lava lizards, and even spotted an iguana or two running away in to the undergrowth as I approached.
Darwin's finch
Frigatebird
Marine iguana
Lava lizard
The secluded beach I walked to  
Pelican

The following day I booked myself on a day trip which is the most popular from San Cristobal and involves a boat ride to several interesting sights surrounding the island and the opportunity to snorkel or scuba dive in the sea. Our first stop was Isla las Lobos, a small island which is home to a large colony of sea lions. We were quickly in the water with our snorkelling equipment on and after a minute or so of wondering if we would see anything, suddenly a sea lion swam right up to me! For the next twenty minutes, numerous sea lions swam right up to our group and were close enough to reach out and touch, such was their inquisitiveness and confidence around humans. We also spotted a few marine iguanas basking on the rocks, and saw the male frigatebirds puffing up their chests in to huge red balloons to attract female birds.

Sea lion (thanks google images!)
Male frigatebird
Once back on the boat, we headed on to our next stop, the impressive island of Leon Dormido which is said to resemble a sleeping lion. Here we got two opportunities to snorkel in the channel between the two sections of the islands, which had calmer, clearer waters than the choppy sea around the island.

Leon Dormido
The channel we snorkelled through

This time we were able to swim amongst galapagos sharks, hammerhead sharks and turtles, which was an amazing experience. The sharks were relatively small and a few metres below us, but however you look at it we were swimming with sharks! We also spotted a few sea turtles and an eagle ray so quite an impressive haul of marine life for a few minutes of snorkelling.

Unfortunately I don't have a waterproof camera so I'll have to let Google Images do the honours...

Galapagos shark
Hammerhead shark
Galapagos sea turtle
Eagle ray
The next day, I signed up for another tour that would take me around San Cristobal island itself. No-one else had signed up for the tour so it was just me and a taxi driver/guide who I had a good morning practising my Spanish on as we drove between the different sites. First up was the only source of freshwater on the island, Laguna El Junco, a natural lake formed in the crater of an old volcano which I spent some time walking around. 

Laguna El Junco
We then headed to La Galapaguera, a giant tortoise sanctuary, which is helping to restore numbers of the endangered species by breeding them in captivity. If you've seen the QI episode that discusses the giant tortoise then you'll know part of the reason there are so few left is because they apparently   taste so delicious - unfortunately none of the restaurants on San Cristobal offered the opportunity to test this out! The tortoises were amazing creatures to watch moving slowly around minding their own business, and we were able to get really close to them, as well as see some of the younger tortoises that have been bred there.






The final stop of the day was at Puerto Chino, a small sandy beach where I had a quick swim in the sea before we headed back to town.
Puerto Chino

On my final full day on the island, I hired a bike and explored a couple of other parts of San Cristobal which hadn't been covered on the previous day's tour. After a couple of false starts with faulty bikes, I finally found a bike in the hire shop that had the holy trinity of inflated tyres, functioning brakes and a full complement of gears (the staff seemingly didn't own a bicycle pump or any knowledge of bike maintenance), and set off for the village of El Progreso. This involved a rather punishing 45 minute ride uphill to the centre of the island, which although hard work was worth it for the brilliant views across the island I got from a couple of viewpoints around the village.



I then stopped in at the rather wonderful El Ceibo, an incredible tree house sat in a huge three hundred year old Ceibo tree which was well worth a visit. As well as the tree house (which you can stay in for $20 a night if you've got a good head for heights) there was an underground room among the roots of the tree and a bar made from thousands of old beer bottles.
El Ceibo
Heading down in to the roots
El Ceibo bar

After a much quicker ride back down the hill into town, I headed for La Loberia, a beach known for its large sea lion colony. While I didn't see quite as many sea lions as I expected, a walk along the cliffs beyond the beach allowed me to see a number of marine iguanas. Again I had the path entirely to myself meaning that I unexpectedly crept up on quite a few iguanas and surprised both myself and them on each occasion. The iguanas were really well camouflaged against the rock and once I'd begun to spot them suddenly every rock looked like an iguana! I certainly got better at spotting them during the course of my walk as on the way back I spotted two or three groups of iguanas close to the path that I'd completely missed when going the other way.






The following morning it was time to catch a flight back to mainland Ecuador, bringing an end to a great few days on San Cristobal. Although I had only seen one of the islands and so only really gotten a small taste of the Galapagos Islands as a whole, I'd nevertheless seen a great variety of wildlife and got up close to a lot of different creatures in their natural habitat.

Sunset over Puerto Baquerizo Moreno